Bohri Biryani

Unraveling the Culinary Craftsmanship of A Millennium Old Tradition

The allure of biryani to the people of the Indian subcontinent is very conspicuous. The biryani, quite obviously, is a singular example of culinary evolution that allures the outside world in this cultural fusion. There has been a general belief that the word "biryani" is derived from the Persian word "Biriyan," which literally connotes frying before cooking, or from the word "Birinj," meaning rice. Nowadays, when people in Iran refer to "biryani," they mean the preparation of a food mainly consisting of Sangak bread, and "polo" is used together with rice-based dishes with meat.

This cuisine, with its ingredients, methods, and flavors, came to the Indian subcontinent as a result of the migration and trade of soldiers, merchants, and their companions from Persia to Mughal empires. It would eventually give rise to regional varieties like Hyderabadi biryani, in which rice and meat are delicately layered, and Kolkata biryani, made with potatoes.

The final biryani tradition came up with the Dawoodi Bohra community in the regions of Gujarat and Sindh—now part of Pakistan—who were rather unique in terms of culinary practices. The Bohras use varieties of meats like chicken, lamb, beef, or even seafood, and the methods and flavors show their explicit heritage.

Between the 11th and 13th centuries, Yemeni merchants began to arrive in the Indian subcontinent, particularly in towns such as Surat, Calicut, and Chittagong. Proof of their contribution to cuisine lies in the mainstream Malabar cuisine of Kerala, with the flavorful Mappila biryani. On the same lines as the Thalassery biryani, Mappila cuisine brings out the range of diversity and regional variations taken on by biryani.

A favored Yemeni dish is Mandi, in which meat and rice are both cooked underground for a sustained amount of time. While it could be quite different from biryani, Mandi's method of cooking is quite similar to the dum method of cooking biryani. The term "Mandi" is a translation from the Arabic term that refers to "dew," representing marinating and slow-cooking of the meat items in a moist atmosphere. Though Mandi is more moist and carries subtle flavors, biryani is marked with a treasure trove of rich and aromatic spices.

Originally hailing from Yemen, the Dawoodi Bohra community migrated to India's Gujarat and Pakistan's Sindh areas, again giving different flavors to biryani. Due to the cocooning of different communities here, biryani is cooked with a variety of meats like chicken, lamb, beef, and seafood. The Bohra biryani has its own distinction in cooking style using different spices and ingredients.

Typically, basmati rice and a variety of meats are used for making Bohra biryani. Though, compared to some other forms of biryani, it is not that spicy, the way it is prepared and the way the various flavors come in are what make it different. U nique to this biryani is the use of boiled potatoes just like in Kolkata biryani. Though Bohra biryani is not available as easily as some of the other forms, its different style of flavors and ways of cooking really come together to give a different experience in eating.

Cooking Bohra-style Biryani is a cumbersome procedure. The basmati rice is soaked and parboiled: it is then put into a vessel in layers. Onions are fried golden brown, while potatoes are crisped. A green paste of chili, garlic, and ginger is made. The whole spices are first fried lightly in a skillet. Then, some powdered spices and the green masala paste form the base of the chicken gravy. Add chicken and cook until the color changes. Chopped or pureed tomatoes are added along with the chicken. Now, add the fried onions back into the mixture and simmer until the chicken gets tender. Add yogurt and dried plums to form a thickened gravy. The parboiled rice is drained and kept separately to layer alternately with the chicken gravy and saffron-infused oil in a pot. Another steaming process of the biryani is carried out by covering the pot tightly. Rich and redolent, the end result bespeaks the very nuances of flavor tradition represented by the Bohra community.

From its Persian roots to regional variations, the journey of biryani becomes a testament to the variety that characterizes the rich tapestry of culinary influences and traditions that have been staples of the Indian subcontinent. The Bohra biryani of different regional variations is what adds to the complex flavors and methods that get the making of this favorite dish.