Exploring the Early Morning Biryani Phenomenon in Hoskote, Bengaluru
In the quiet predawn hours, as most of Bengaluru sleeps, an unusual culinary phenomenon unfolds in the quaint town of Hoskote. At 4 am, when the city is wrapped in slumber, a long queue of food enthusiasts assembles, their eyes gleaming with anticipation. Their quest? Biryani. This article delves into the intriguing world of early morning biryani in Hoskote, uncovering its history, the dedicated connoisseurs, the unique recipes, and the cultural impact that has made it a cherished tradition.
While many might wonder who has biryani for breakfast, thousands in and around the city apparently do. This unique culinary tradition has been established for some time, despite its recent surge in popularity on Instagram.
The aroma of biryani wafts through the air, drawing crowds of enthusiastic patrons. Hoskote, a small town located about 30 kilometers from Bengaluru, is at the epicenter of this biryani mania. It's a phenomenon that has taken many by surprise, raising the question of why people are willing to wake up at such an early hour to indulge in this beloved dish.
The primary enthusiasts of this early morning delight come from various walks of life, regular individuals who have made the journey to savor this extraordinary biryani. While nearly 80% of customers hail from Bengaluru and its outskirts, others journey from Andhra Pradesh, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. These patrons include friends, families, and couples, underscoring the broad appeal of this unique culinary tradition.
To truly understand the early morning biryani phenomenon, one must visit Mani Dum Biryani, a restaurant in Hoskote. Manjunath, Kiran Kumar, and Chandrashekhar, second-generation siblings, currently manage the token and biryani counters at the establishment. They provide insights into the history of this unique tradition.
In 1989, their father, Mani, operated a vegetarian restaurant in the vicinity. The clientele was primarily composed of fuel tanker and lorry drivers, as the Indian Oil Corporation’s national service station was nearby. In response to customer requests, the restaurant transitioned to serving non-vegetarian food, eventually specializing in biryani around 1992. About 15 years ago, the growth of the Information Technology Business Process Outsourcing sector in Bengaluru increased foot traffic to their establishment. The introduction of the token system was driven by customer pressure, and the trend of serving early morning biryani took hold. Furthermore, cultural and religious factors played a role in determining the restaurant's operating days. Mani Dum Biryani is open only three days a week—Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday. This aligns with cultural beliefs that discourage the consumption of non-vegetarian food on certain days, such as Monday for Lord Shiva, Thursday for Sai Baba, and Saturday for Lord Hanuman. The alternate days formula, coupled with the exclusivity of biryani, has proven to be a successful strategy.
Work at Mani Dum Biryani commences as early as 1 am, with the meticulous marination of the meat and frying of homemade masalas. The recipe includes a secret spice blend and a selection of ingredients sourced from the local area, such as onions, ginger, garlic, chili, coriander, and tomatoes. The rice is a unique blend of Kesar Kali kolam rice and India Gate basmati, with a 75:25 ratio. Kuri (sheep) is obtained from local villages, and each degchi (cooking vessel) contains around 220 kg of mutton and 180-90 kg of rice, enriched with 7-8 liters of Nandini ghee. The cooking process uses the wood of the Indian beech tree as fuel, adding a distinct flavor to the biryani.
The only dish offered at Mani Dum Biryani stands out with its aroma, which is a delightful fusion of spices and meat. Every grain of rice has absorbed the rich medley of spices and meat-derived fats, leaving a lasting spicy impression on the taste buds. You can detect the spiciness from green chilies and the unique spice mix crafted in Mani's kitchen. Some of the meat contains a luscious layer of fat that melts in your mouth, while other pieces offer a more substantial texture. This biryani packs a spicy punch, and it's balanced by the soothing influence of Mosaru Bhajji, onion, and cucumber raita.
A similar story can be heard at Anand Dum Biryani, located nearby, which began its journey in 1998, initially specializing in Chitranna and Idli. Anand's customers, impressed by his culinary skills, encouraged him to start serving biryani on Sundays. He began with a trial portion of 2 kg, which was exceptionally well-received. Like Mani Dum Biryani, Anand's biryani also uses a blend of Kesar Kali and Basmati rice, along with native ingredients. However, it stands out by favoring red chili powder over green chili. Anand's method involves chopping the coriander and chili, imparting a unique yellowish-brown color to the biryani. Patrons arrive at Anand Dum Biryani as early as 5 am, just after completing their shifts at factories or offices. The biryani typically runs out by 9 am due to high demand. While technically closer to mutton pulao or tehri, it's commonly referred to as biryani, and enthusiasts are quick to embrace the term.
The primary flavors in this biryani arise from the use of fresh ingredients like local ginger, garlic, coriander, and mint, followed by a delicate blend of aromatic spices. Each rice grain is infused with these flavors, and the meat consists of a mix of tender, juicy pieces and bone-in cuts, which require some effort to savor completely, including some fat. The seasoning is mild and comforting.
The southern part of India is renowned for its rich variety of Biryani, characterized by a complex blend of spices, fresh herbs, and a careful selection of meats. These Biryani dishes have consistently delighted the palates of both locals and tourists over the years. If you find yourself in Bengaluru or any nearby town, I highly recommend making time to savor the early morning Hoskote Biryani. I'm confident it will create a cherished memory for years to come.